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Rovos Rail from Cape Town to Pretoria
Recently I was invited to travel aboard one of the world's most luxurious trains, Rovos Rail, on an amazing three-day journey from Cape Town to Pretoria. Rovos Rail is named after its owner, Mr Rohan Vos, who turned his passion for restoring old steam engines into a hugely successful business.
My trip began in style at Cape Town railway station, sipping sparkling wine and checking out my fellow passengers to the soothing strains of a string duet. Following an official welcome from the train manager, I was shown to my luxury, air-conditioned suite where I received a comprehensive briefing from my personal butler. The compartment was surprisingly spacious and contained a generously-sized double bed, a writing desk and sitting area and an en-suite bathroom with shower (the bathroom in the Royal Suite has a separate bath AND shower for those who really want to indulge themselves!).
From the coast the 1000 mile route follows an old pioneering trail carved out of the African bushveld, passing through the lush wine region with its soaring sandstone cliffs, before climbing to the interior through the Hex River Valley.
In the late afternoon we briefly toured the quaint Victorian village of Matjiesfontein (pronounced "Mikeys-fontayn", meaning "the fountain of little reed mats"), a 120-year-old refreshment stop in the Karoo, South Africa's arid central plateau. The Boer War Museum beneath the platform is unmissable. As the light faded in the passing semi-desert landscape I donned jacket and tie and made my way to the historic 1920s-era dining car for a delectable gourmet meal of Ostrich carpaccio and fresh Cape Salmon, accompanied by some excellent South African wine.
Nightcaps were enjoyed in the comfortable lounge car, where the bar is open 24 hours. At around 11pm the train pulled into a siding for the night which allowed for a restful night's sleep. Early the next morning I sat awhile on the outdoor veranda at the rear of the train, taking in the cool air as the countryside rumbled past, before making my way through to a hearty breakfast of Eggs Benedict. We stopped a few hours later at Kimberley, the historic diamond town that's home to the Big Hole - at one time the world's largest man-made excavation. After touring a recreated mining village we lunched in the historic, wood-panelled Kimberley Club, once frequented by such diamond magnates as Cecil John Rhodes and Barney Barnato.
The next day we passed through downtown Johannesburg, previously a by-word for crime and grime but now undergoing a remarkable renaissance marked by projects like the futuristic Nelson Mandela Bridge and a planned high speed train linking the city with Pretoria to the north. Africa's second largest city after Cairo, "Jo'burg" or "Jozi" has amazing shops, restaurants and hotels, and fascinating attractions like the black township of Soweto and the Apartheid Museum.
Just outside Pretoria we all left the train to watch as a
huge steam engine replaced the diesel locomotive for the final
few miles of our journey. We puffed our way into Rovos Rail's
private and opulent Capital Park station, a memorable way
to end an incredible trip. This really is one of the world's
great travel experiences, one which will stay in your mind
forever. Highly recommended!
Note: Rovos Rail has several different itineraries, including an annual 15-day journey from Cape Town to Dar-es-Salaam in Tanzania.
For more information, please e-mail us at: info@ashworthafrica.com
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